I haven't really had much luck tracking the history of Skils early tools. This is what I believe to be an first generation model 77 Skilsaw. I have been unable to find an owners manual or any other literature on this saw and would appreciate any info any one could shed on this tool. It continues to run well, although I can't say that I run this saw often enough to comment on its durability. So I drained the oil out and regreased it. Not having an oil level hole to gauge capacity as this tools only access is through a access hole on top of the tool, I took a guess and just covered the end of the worm drive gear. After going back and forth with Skils customer service who insisted that none of their model 77s ran grease, I tried oil. When I purchased this saw its gearcase was filled with grease, not oil, and included in the tools case was a tube of Skil branded grease. It has enough power in my opinion, to still be quite useful. PS: If all you want is the switch, then I would go with the site provided by "aghcollect", as it looks like a good source.Ĭreate an account or login in order to post a comment.This saw still runs great. When you call them, ask for customer service. Then they emailed a copy of the original parts diagram for my 1940's #77. I did this, and they nailed my saw down to the first and last years and month cf production. Has this handle on your saw been modified? To find it's age, you will need to find as many numbers on it as you can, such as serial numbers, and contact skil with the link I'm providing you below. Yours looks like it could be that old, except for the handle. The first #77 skilsaw was introduced in 1937. I appreciate the advice and will let you know if it's fixed. When I went to get supplies to work on it, an electric motor tech said that the switches are usually dirty and the contacts worn. I find the saw easier to control than any other I've used. If I hold on to both handles, torque is no problem. If it shorted out there, the switch should still be good. section of you hardware & buy a small can of "Liquid Insulation" (or something like that) & coat the terminals. Separate the terminals you soldered, even it you have to file out a little solder.
If you intend trying to sell it then perhaps it is better for parts. If you intend keeping it to use no price is too much. Pretty common saw and you need to weigh the part cost against the value of the finished product. Take my word.have a strong wrist when you pull the trigger.
Very popular if you are doing post and beam construction. They actually require gear oil to keep them running. Try this place - the same type switches may have been used in different models but they show diagrams and descriptions
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